Monday, 1 August 2016

Skirt #1 - The Vera Skirt.

I've decided to call this the Vera Skirt. I've figured I'll do a series of skirts and give them people names instead of dodgy description/names like I usually do for my other makes. Vera is a 12 paneled skirt with godets. It is made from a standard straight block pattern.



This is of course a half scale version. When working with half scale models it means the fabric appears a little stiffer than it would on a full scale garment, and obviously the scale of the print is full size.

I have modeled this on this skirt.
Side by side:

Mine should be quite a bit longer to be a more accurate match. I've made my skirt the scaled equivalent of 47cm long, about 18.5", and I've since found a note about this skirt to say it should be about 64cm long, or 25", which looks like it would be about right to me - that as it coming down almost to the bottom of the picture frame above.

I didn't do this drafting entirely of my own accord. I've amassed quite an extensive library of diagrams for such things, and this skirt came to my attention through a sewing / pattern drafting facebook group. It came with the following images:


So in order to appropriately reference my images, I went searching for it (How good is google image search?) and I keep finding the picture and the drafting instructions - that exact same set.

I believe they originally came from this blog (it's quite difficult to tell as it isn't in English)
http://www.marlenemukai.com.br/2016/02/19/saia-com-nesgas-e-cos-anatomico/

I can't find the original source for the skirt image.

Here's the thing though - These drafting instructions are incorrect. Not just the marking of horizontal stripes, but the number of panels and gores doesn't work to recreate the inspiration picture.

It's hardly surprising that stuff on the internet isn't always accurate. The skirt in the picture has 12 gores, not 8. It looks like 8, because two at the front are hard to see on the 3 dimensional form.

To illustrate, this is my skirt on the form.

And this is the skirt off the form.

While it's on the form, you can see 4 panels clearly (making 8 all around), but once off the form, it's 6 (12 around). Which is not to say a skirt couldn't be made with the 8 panels, but it wouldn't resemble the original skirt. There's a bit of visual distortion to take into account, because the human form is 3 dimensional.

I will have drafting instructions up soon, I've even made the diagrams ready to go - but I don't want to make this post too long! So check back later in the week or follow or subscribe by email for updates. I am now on instagram ( @shapelyseams ) too!

Half size mannequin is from http://halfsizemannequin.com/ 
Fabric is an inexpensive polycotton, purchased on ebay around 2 years ago.

2 comments:

  1. It looks great and fun too. Love the idea of the inserts and the stripe pattern.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Sonja. I love they way stripes both enhance and reveal shapes in clothes!

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