Saturday, 25 June 2016

Bump Friendly Top and Dress Construction

I procrastinated on this post, because when I was making stuff, I didn't take photos. I was in a hurry and needed stuff to wear. But ultimately I have come to the conclusion that the fastest way to write decent instructions for construction was just to make it again and take photos. So here is a non-maternity version of the top.

Because the end is in sight!

If you've just arrived, the photos for the other garments from this pattern are here, and the drafting instruction post is here. Fancy applique info for the jade top is here.

Fabric Choice
For each top I used a jersey. The grey top was a cotton, the dress and jade top were viscose. This is a synthetic (I assume polyester) with a matte finish which I managed to pick up at my local sewing shop. They never have much dressmaking wise, so I was pretty chuffed to come home with a piece of this!

Cut 2 sleeves, 2 front yoke pieces on the fold, 1 front on the fold, 1 back on the fold and 1 back yoke on the fold. I have folded in half of the extra at the centre front, and folded up the curve at the bottom of the front because I am not making it for a bump this time.

Sew together the two front yokes at the top edge.
 I used a stretch stitch and a zigzag stitch, which stabilised the edge sufficiently.

Fold over, press and understitch the yoke at the top edge. 

 Gather between the gather points on the front.
And match up the yoke to the front piece.

I sewed through all layers and finished with a zigzag again. You could sew to the front yoke only and then enclose the raw edges, but I'm satisfied with this. Although I do wish I had an overlocker! 
 Sew the back facing to the top edge of the back piece.

 Turn up 1cm (or whatever you allow as your seam/hem allowance) and hand baste.
 Put the back and front shoulders together. The print makes it a bit tricky to see here, but the back is underneath, and you are looking at the front yoke.
 Fold the back facing over the front yoke, so that when you sew you are enclosing the front shoulder in the back and back facing pieces.

 So pinned, it will look like this.
 Once sewn, the edges are enclosed like this.

 Clip the extra bulk out of the corner and top stitch the back edge and the lower edge of the facing.

 Remove the basting.
 I clipped the little extra bit of the seam allowance at the front.

 And then I used the flat method to insert the sleeves.

 Stitch up the sides.
 And then hem the sleeves and bottom edge.

And there you have it!
For the record, this does actually fit me! But I'd rather show it off post bump. So for now, it hangs on the hanger in anticipation. :)

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