Today I'm writing about this dress:
Specifically, how I went about drafting it.
I started with a t-shirt, and a basic straight skirt pattern. The skirt is not a knit block, but it doesn't matter as I'm using a jersey fabric. Front is on the left, Back is on the right.
I didn't use a t-shirt with a bust dart, which in hindsight would have been better. Oh well.
The sleeve remains the same throughout.
I split the t-shirt at the waistline.
And added a new seam allowance. I put a slight curve on the front.
Looking just at the back skirt block, I am ignoring the seam allowances at this point.
The darts will be eliminated, and replaced with tucks.
I want to create 6 tucks on the front, and 6 on the back. That means 3 per half.
Each tuck is 1.5cm deep, (5/8") so I need 3cm (1 1/4") to create the fold.
3 x 3 = 9cm of tuckable fabric is required. I measure the darts, which were each 2cm deep, and then added 5cm at the centre line to make a total of 9cm. I haven't converted this into metric because the measurements are slightly skewed by the conversion. But the concept is the same.
|2 + 2 + 5 = 9cm, total required for tucks. |
Metric is easier folks.
I don't want to increase at the hemline, as I want the skirt to draw back in.
I have omitted the vent from the block pattern because I am making this in a jersey and it will stretch. If I was making this skirt in a woven I would need to allow more space to enable movement.
There is a 5cm (2") extension on the centre line,
So I reduce the outer edge by 5cm (2").
And smooth it out.
I then need to create the tucks. From the centre fold, I create 2 lines 1.5cm apart, and then leave a 4cm gap, then 3 lines 1.5cm apart, 4cm gap, 3 lines 1.5cm apart. Thusly:
The spacing is up to you, as long as the tucks = the amount of fabric you've allowed yourself.
The process on the front is exactly the same.
I then drew in a pocket line on the front.
Which is then split into it's 3 component parts - front of skirt, pocket facing and main pocket which also shows at the front.Hems and seam allowances on all those pieces, and the pattern is done.
I finished the neckline with a binding, which I cut as a strip from scraps.
So there you have it. One dress, for jersey fabric, inspired by purple mushrooms.