Sunday, 1 February 2015

Drafting A Shoulder Princess Line

For today's post, I'm going to go through the drafting of the dress I made for the January Challenge.

Not the best photos in the world, I'm afraid. Winter lighting. What can I say?

The dress is a long sleeve, knee length dress with a slight flare to the skirt, and a shoulder princess line. I talked about armhole princess lines before, and my yellow dress is really very similar to this style, although it was made in a woven fabric, and here I am using a knit.

The instructions for this drafting is based on my knit dress block, however this procedure would work in exactly the same way for a woven fabric, just based on a woven block. I am not including instructions for sleeves, as the sleeves are just a regular long sleeve. Obviously, you could put any sleeve style on there.

Starting with a knit dress, which has darts in the front and back. I have full instructions for creating this block, although it is a step by step process. See copying a t-shirt, Tank top with darts, tank dress, and tank dress front darts for further information on that. I can see it's time to streamline a few of these tutorials! But any knit block or basic knit dress which fits well will do.

I started with my block. Shown here front left, back right. It already includes seam allowances on the sides / shoulders. Also marked are bustline and bust point, under bust and waist line, and darts.
 Draw in a line to create the princess seam. It goes from mid shoulder, through the bust point on the front, through the dart. My front line sweeps to the side to create a smooth line on the front panel, but touches the edge of the dart.
 From here the pieces are split.
 I tidied up the edge, and smoothed the lines out.
 Split through from the bust dart to the bust point, and rotate to close the dart.
 Part of the dart will overlap. That's cool. The dart needs to close without opening up on the new line.
 Once alls split and moved apart, that gives us these shapes.
I flared the skirt about 3cm (1 3/6") on each side of the skirt, from the hip line. Note that the flare is not added to the centre front and back, as they are placed on the fold. The hemline is curved slightly. 

 Now like this.
I already have a seam allowance on the sides/shoulders, but I need to put a new seam allowance in where the pattern pieces have been cut. I also included a hem.
 At this point we have a basic shoulder line princess with a flared skirt. Because my print was so geometric, I wanted to create a squared neckline. Not strictly square, it has a slant. I put the new neckline in no deeper than the existing neckline.

 From here I created a split to make a facing.

 I add a seam allowance onto each of those pieces
 I also included a pocket. On the yellow dress, I had a pocket bag, made with lining fabric. This has a very similar cut. But in this case I am making a patch pocket. Looking at the side panel, I draw in the position of the pocket. I then copy that piece - plus seam allowance at the bottom, and a fold allowance at the top.
 And there you have it.
Since the neckline facing will be made of 2 pieces, it's important to consider the treatment of the back neck. You could bind it, or you might consider an additional facing to create a smooth join.

1 comment:

  1. That's incredible! Thanks for sharing so much detail of the evolution of the pattern, too. At the moment, I'm just happy with making tweaks to avoid neckline gaping but one day... one day, I might have the confidence to do things like this, too!