Friday, 5 December 2014

Funnel Cowl


I've been making more cowls. Because... well... I think I am in love with them. They are so interesting and variable!

And cuddly. 

This time I've made a deeper, open shape. 

Good for hiding chunky necklaces in, I think.

Unlike the last cowl I made, which was a tube shape, this cowl is like a funnel.

What's not to love?

I made one version in green which is built on a t-shirt with long sleeves, and a one on a t-shirt dress which has 3/4 sleeves with a cuff. Instructions below assume you have an existing basic t-shirt to work off.

Drafting Instructions

Most of this drafting is exactly the same as the banded cowl. So if you're reading it and you find yourself experiencing some deja vu, that's because I've copied and pasted most of these instructions. 

In any case, we're starting with a regular t-shirt or t-shirt dress.
Standard tee - Oh yeah!
To prepare your existing shirt pattern, you need to draw in the neckline. Because the cowl is going to add extra fabric bulk, it will bring the neckline up quite a bit. So you need the neckline on your original shirt to be on the deeper side.
Old line crossed out, new line drawn in underneath.
Your pattern may or may not have darts for the bust (mine does, but it isn't necessary). Make sure the new line creates a right angle where it meets the midline. I only needed to alter the front of my pattern.

From there, you measure the neckline you have created on the stitching line. That means whatever seam allowance your pattern states, you measure that far in from the edge.  Measure front and back, not including the shoulder seam allowances. We are working on the half pattern, so we only need the half measurements. (Shown in red here)
Add those measurements together, and that's your neckline measurement.

Moving on to creating the actual cowl.
The cowl has 2 lines of symmetry, one of which will be on the fold of the fabric, and the other will be created by working on a folded piece of paper. I am working on brown paper, and I fold a length down like so.

Enter diagrams:
From here, mark in the depth for front and back. I mark the front right on the edge of the paper. My front depth was 25cm, and my back depth was 22cm (Roughly 10" and 8 1/2"). I marked that further out along the paper.
I also made sure I included my seam allowances. I work in metric, and I pretty much always use 1cm. You can use any seam allowance you're comfortable with. So if you use 5/8" most of the time, chuck that on, under the first set of lines.
 The next step is to create the curve, and mark in the length. Place the tape measure along the paper in a curve which joins the front level to the back level like this.
 Mark the length. I worked out this length by the length of the neckline on the shirt pattern (in my case 34.5 cm) minus about 2.5cm (1"). I did that so the neckline would sit firmly around the neck without being too tight. Different fabrics will behave differently. If in doubt, you can baste it together in the construction stage, and if it's too loose take it in at the back.
 Here is a photograph. The diagram is exaggerated compared to the actual curve. I place the tape measure so that it measures the required distance. I need to mark where the tape ends, and then sketch in that curve.
 I also draw in a perpendicular line. That line used to be the centre back seam.


For this style, want the outer edge of my cowl to be longer, so it can fall and make an open shape. But I don't want the inner edge (where it joins to the neckline) any larger. The top line is the upper edge, and the bottom line will be the seam.

I can't add anything to the left side, because it needs to sit on the fold. I don't want to create a seam down the center front of my cowl!

I need to extend that top line towards the right.
Measure out 10cm (4") to the right. Join the bottom corner and this new point.

 I don't want a point at the back of my neck, so I create an open dart. To do this, I drop down about 5cm (2") and put a mark at right angles to the line.

I curve that back to the original line, making sure I keep the right angle on the edge.

I also need to sort out the point at the bottom of the cowl. I create a right angle at the bottom intersection and blend that into the  existing line. (Dual lines shown here indicate seam allowance.)

For the green cowl, I created that line pretty much inside the existing space.
 For the purple one, I dropped it down about 2.5cm (1").

At this point, as before, you cut out both layers and unfold the pattern piece.

So this is what it looks like in real life. 

Mark 'place on fold' on the long edge so you don't forget!

Cut it out on the fold:
Before joining the centre back seam, close the dart at the top edge.

Press that out, and then join the centre back seam.
Press outwards, and fold down to get your cowl shape, with the seam at the centre back.

From this point, just as for the banded cowl I made before, it is inserted into the shirt just like a regular ribbed neckline. I also topstitched over the seam with a zigzag stitch. The rest of the dress or t-shirt is put together like a regular t-shirt. Check out flat method construction.

And we're done!

1 comment:

  1. Like it! You can see the difference from the banded cowl as to how it sits around the neck.