Sunday, 2 November 2014

Knock Off Tutorial Part 3 - Construction

Continuing from Part 1 and Part 2 of this tutorial. This is the final part!

With the front and the knotted layer ready, the next step is to baste them together.

Align the knot with the strip of gathering.
Smooth it out to the edges. The narrowest part of the knot layer will not align with the waistline of the original shirt. Keep the narrowest part in line with the gathering, and move the edges so that they fit.
The top corner will overlap the armhole, as we haven't shaped them yet. They should overlap by 5cm (as per the original measurement). Ignore this for now, and pin and baste the two layers together down the sides only.

Along the orange lines. The knot layer will overhang but should still be straightened up (don't mind the bit slipping on the left side in this photo. Should be like the right.)

Once you've done that, you will baste the arm hole as well. This is what it looks like from the back.

 I stitch around that edge.

 And trim the excess off.

At this point, we are ready to join the front and back. The shoulder and neckband are one piece.
Pin the shoulders, and clip into the corner on the front piece (to the point marked with a green dot on cutting out). Then align the band with the strip. Sew around neck and shoulders. I have some notes on stabilising shoulder seams here.

Back view:

 From the front with point clipped
 Front view with collar flipped forwards.
From this point, the shirt is constructed as per a regular t-shirt, treating the two layers on the front as one. See my flat construction or set in sleeve guides.

I basted the side seams for fit first, and tweaked the fit slightly to bring the waist in snugly.

Hem sleeve edges and bottom edge.
And you're done!

Did you have a go?

If you had any questions around the instructions here, please leave a comment below and I'll be sure to address it.

If you do make your own version, I would LOVE to hear about it.

1 comment:

  1. Great work de-mystifying the knotted top for me! It's a great top. Thanks for the clear instructions.