Saturday, 1 November 2014

Knock Off Tutorial Part 2 - Construction

This post continues on from Part 1.

We are creating this top.


For construction, use an appropriate stitch for stretch fabric. There are several options here, and it's up to you which one you use, but I'm not going into full detail here. Do a test swatch and check you're happy with it. You certainly don't need a serger to make this up.

If the t-shirt has darts in the front, as mine does, these need to be sewn first.

Then the two front pieces are connected across the top edge, and along the centre front line between the bottom edge and the mark I put for the neckline. For the centre front seam, use a larger, 2cm seam allowance to have a generous fold. [3/4"]. That's the orange lines on this diagram.

Your neckline will be straight across, I modified mine later.

Press this fold outwards, continuing up the unstitched part to create the neckline.
I put a few small stitches in the top fold at the centre back to hold it in place.

From here, the next step is to a gather across the front.

At cutting out stage, we drew in a chalk line. This line needs to include the full measurement of the extension, and an additional space on each side. My original extension was 15cm. I now increase that by 4 - 5cm (2") on each side, and put a mark at each end.

Then it can be gathered into that extra space. So because I added 4cm on each side, I gather this whole line to 8cm,
  To secure it, sew a piece of cotton tape along the gathered strip.

You could use soft elastic (as used on knickers and stuff) but I wouldn't use clear elastic as it will be sitting against the skin.

To construct the knotted layer, begin by finding the centre point of the trapezium, on the short side.
 I've placed a pin here to indicate the centre.
 Mark and clip a point 3cm [1 1/8th"] to each side. My picture here has 2cm each side, but it was a bit snug so I'd go larger next time.
 Fold that down and sew it in place. Do this on both strips.
Hem or finish both of the long edges. (No photo, sorry. I forgot).

On ONE PIECE ONLY fold over and sew along the short side up to the fold.
 When you open it out, you will have something like this.
 Pass the other trapezium down through the hole, with the long side towards the middle.

 Join the short edges, with the first shape in the gap, and sew them together.
 Then when they are both laid out flat, you get this.
Aww, a butterfly! More to come in Part 3.

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