Monday, 14 April 2014

Slim Fit Hoodie - an Alteration

Jon's had this hoodie for ages, and never wears it.

Its far too big and floppy.

And its got this...

Yeah its got fake fur lining. It looks like someone caught and skinned a large teddy bear.

Initially he bought it because he thought it would be warm, but as it turns out, it's too warm to wear.

So today I'm going to fix it.

I started by unpicking the lining. There were crazy amounts of fluff and lint in the corners.

It took a couple of hours to remove that furry beast.

Once I'd de-fluffed, I needed to have a look at re-shaping. I compared it to one of Jon's other hoodies, and found it was a whole 7cm wider. Yikes! This makes a risky alteration. The more you're taking in, the more the original design gets distorted.

Initially I'd hoped I could get away with a new underarm seam, but with that much coming out, it wasn't an option. I did baste before cutting, so we could check the fit.

Then I unpicked the sleeves.

From there, I brought in the sides. To do this I had to take off the ribbing, sew the new seam, sew a new seam on the ribbing, and then reattach. Luckily, the ribbing had seams which aligned with the side seam, so I didn't have to take it off completely (or touch the zip at all). I took 3.5cm on each side.

I also brought the sleeves in to make them narrower. For the sleeves I took in 2cm on each. Again, I needed to take it in at the ribbing as well.

Quite a lot of chopping happening.

These changes alter the curve around the arm, and the sleeve head. So I redrew those lines in to create a scaled down version of the original shape, which would sit more like it was originally intended (rather than having a chunk chopped off, which would distort the sleeve).

Similarly, I brought in the curve of the shoulder. 

I chopped that off, and I put the sleeve back in, using the set in method. The hood is just tacked on in this shot.

Because this hoodie was originally lined, I checked the inside to see what things needed fixing, and tidied things up a bit. That meant using a mock-overlock stitch on raw edges, and folding over the tape along the zip.

Mock overlock is the blue stitch at the top there.

I also needed to re-line the hood, because it's on display all the time!

I used the original 'fur' pieces as a pattern to cut a new hood out of a beige jersey, which will be much lighter.

I then attached the new lining to the hood, turned it right sides out, put a couple of tacking stitches on the seam to hold it, and re-attached the hood to the neckline. This was covered with the original tape which concealed the seam and added stability.

And then Jon tried it on again.

Much better fit, and much more wearable.

Being all 'street'.

Jon claims not to like being in front of the camera, but he had a few poses ready to go...


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