Today's post is about drafting the bodice. It's really not that big a jump from the block.
There are two changes. The first is the neckline, and the second is converting the single dart beneath the bust into a double dart. I'm going to go into more detail on how I shaped those darts in the next post.
My illustrations are based on *my* basic block, so the proportions may not appear typical. But the concept is the same! The key thing to be aware of with my bodice block, is that I have a proportionally full bust, and I'm quite short but stocky. Proportionally I'm a lot closer to a plus sized shape than a 'regular' shape. I'm also getting quite good at full bust adjustments. Double darts allow a smoother control of shape for a full bust.
Here is my basic block.
First, the neckline.
This is just a matter of drawing in the scoop where I want it to go. I looked at necklines on other shirts in my wardrobe to get an idea of where I wanted to scoop to. Make sure the scoop is a right angle where it touches the centre line. When you make a significant alteration to the neckline it may gape a bit - but that's something I'll pick up on the toile.
I want two parallel darts instead of one under the bust. I begin by marking a line on each side of the dart.
Here I fill the new gap with paper.
Here's the square necked front:
That's the basic front. I've done more with the darts but I will explain that in the next post.
Onto the back, which is more straightforward:
Easy. I went for a scoopy back. I had noticed that I'd been making lots of high backs and it was time to mix it up. I made sure I checked that it wouldn't scoop so low as to expose any underwear.
From this point, seam allowances and darts need to be added back on. I drew a line 1.5cm around the shape, and a left a bit of extra space around the dart.