Sunday, 9 February 2014

Drafting the Bodice

Hello again!

Today's post is about drafting the bodice. It's really not that big a jump from the block.
There are two changes. The first is the neckline, and the second is converting the single dart beneath the bust into a double dart. I'm going to go into more detail on how I shaped those darts in the next post.

My illustrations are based on *my* basic block, so the proportions may not appear typical. But the concept is the same! The key thing to be aware of with my bodice block, is that I have a proportionally full bust, and I'm quite short but stocky. Proportionally I'm a lot closer to a plus sized shape than a 'regular' shape. I'm also getting quite good at full bust adjustments. Double darts allow a smoother control of shape for a full bust.

Here is my basic block.
I've already made a toile with this and I know it's a good fit. So I can trace it and start changing it straight away.

First, the neckline.

This is just a matter of drawing in the scoop where I want it to go. I looked at necklines on other shirts in my wardrobe to get an idea of where I wanted to scoop to. Make sure the scoop is a right angle where it touches the centre line. When you make a significant alteration to the neckline it may gape a bit - but that's something I'll pick up on the toile.

To make the squared off neckline for the heart dress, I put a corner instead of a curve:
Now onto the darts.
I want two parallel darts instead of one under the bust. I begin by marking a line on each side of the dart.
I split along the lines and bring them together.
Here I fill the new gap with paper.
I draw two points on either side of the original dart.
Which will become the new dart points. I draw in the new darts:
All cleaned up:
I tweaked it a little, and sloped my darts inwards a bit:
Which meant I needed to extend the middle piece a little so the dart legs were the same length:

And there you have it!
Here's the square necked front:

That's the basic front. I've done more with the darts but I will explain that in the next post.
Onto the back, which is more straightforward:


Easy. I went for a scoopy back. I had noticed that I'd been making lots of high backs and it was time to mix it up. I made sure I checked that it wouldn't scoop so low as to expose any underwear.

From this point, seam allowances and darts need to be added back on. I drew a line 1.5cm around the shape, and a left a bit of extra space around the dart.

Next post I'll explain how to shape the darts on the front bodice for a closer fit. If you plan to do this, don't cut the front out just yet.

5 comments:

  1. Hey Zoe what package are you using for your new snazzy images?

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  2. liking the two darts at the waist, something I've never done. As above comment mentions, images are good! I only have access to illustrator at work and I've occasionally been able to do a tiny bit at lunch but I'm not that quick.

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  3. Ladies, going to disappoint and admit that I'm using microsoft 'paint'.... I did start with a scan of a quarter scale block, but the rest is kind of the digital equivalent of drawing with a wax crayon... :/ But I'm very glad you like them!

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  4. I was looking a few days ago for how to make two darts! Thank you for this great tutorial, Zoe! :-)

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    1. Thanks Daria. I've got another one about shaping darts next... just having a little bit of 'life gets in the way' happening at the moment.
      ;)

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