Sunday, 29 December 2013

Asymmetrical Cowl and Gather Dress - Adding the Asymmetrical Neckline and Side Gather to the Pattern

Two posts in one day? What kind of crazy is this? I'm doing what I can to get this done before I'm back home and packing...

This post is the third in the Asymmetrical Cowl and Gather Dress series.

At this point, to draft the asymmetrical cowl and gather, you need to have a simple cowl dress pattern sorted.

The back is exactly the same, and the sleeve (if you use one) is exactly the same as well. It's a simple process to add the side gather and create the asymmetry in the neckline.

Ordinarily, you cut patterns on the fold. Because this pattern isn't symmetrical, the front has to be cut on a single layer. 

To create the pattern, cut 2 copies of the simple cowl dress front out of paper. These will form a whole front. Mark the waistline in.

From here, join as marked by the blue lines, and cut as marked by the red lines.
You will have three separate pieces - 

Slide the right hand bodice piece up along the cut line. I moved mine upwards 15 cm.
Then take the facing, and align it with the left shoulder.
The facing will not reach the right hand shoulder now, because length has been added in the upward slide. 
Slide the right hand piece left, and rotate the facing, until the facing can reach from one shoulder to the other.
Now the gaps need filling in.

Put some paper behind the gaps and tape or glue into place.
Draw a line to connect the waist.
And cut it out.
Put a dot 3.5cm above, and 3.5cm below the original waist lines. If you're taller, you might increase that to 4cm.
The dots will mark the area you will gather on construction.

That's the front piece complete! 

Construction up next.


  1. The diagrams are great, really clear and understandable instructions.

    1. I do feel like I'm getting better at the diagrams - so much so that after I made the last one, it was so much better than the first few I had to go back and do them again. :)