Today we are drafting the neckline for these shirts.
First things first - If you haven't got a tank top with darts, you could probably do this with a t-shirt pattern. In any case, its worth taking the time getting a good t-shirt and darted tank pattern figured out, because they are useful in their own right, and you can do so much with them! My instructions for copying an existing t-shirt are here (be sure to check part 2, that's when it gets good!) and instructions for adding a dart to the bust are here. Of course, you can use a commercial pattern too. Mark your own bust points, under bust line and waistline on your pattern, as it will come in handy for drafting stuff that fits YOU.
Once you have your basic pattern, you can start on the cowl.
The back is the same as your standard pattern, except that I added a bit of length and made it looser.
I tapered out from the waistline and added 2cm to the side. I added 5cm to the hem, although on the green I modified it to 2cm.
I then added 4cm to that length (=24cm) because my first trial showed me that the length needs to be a bit longer than the original neckline. I drew a line parallel to the paper edge 24cm in. [Edit - sorry just fixed the numbers there!]
I slashed through the bust point and dart. If you don't have bust darts, just slash through the bust line. I lined the edge the bottom of the shirt with the edge of the paper, and rotated out the top by closing the bust dart.
If I wanted a deeper cowl, I could slash the waistline and spread it out further.
From here, I traced out the pattern and extend a line from the edge to the shoulder point at right angles. This is the fold of the cowl, and we will create a facing on the other side of the line.
I added about 8cm to the other side, and draw a parallel line. We will come back to the facing in a moment.
I've got a few pointers on construction of the cowl, and that will be my next post. Stay tuned!