This post is in response to a question on Facebook (Claire - I hope this is helpful!?)
How do you get a smooth seam with two different sized pieces of stretch fabric?
This is an approach you would use for something like a crew neck (which is smaller than the hole to make it sit flat) or other banded neckline. It is also useful for fitting other parts of the garment together where there is *a bit* of stretch.
Here I am fitting a waistband to a skirt. They're both quite strange shapes - I am trying a new design here! The waistband is slightly smaller than the skirt, because I would like a snug fit around the waist.
The method you would use on a woven fabric would be to gather the skirt to fit the waistband. And you can do that. But here's what I do.
I've quartered them and pinned vertically. - I find the quarter marks by folding in half, and then in half again.
I then pin together the quarter marks and the edges. You can see here that they are close, but not an exact fit.
Then I sew. As I sew, I put the shorter length on the top, and pull it out just enough to match up with the lower layer. There are three pieces here because my waistband is double thickness.
When it is all finished, it looks like this: (From above and the side).
I think there is a limit to how much extra fabric you can get in here though - And where. On a neckline you can have a lot of pull, but on something like a sleeve cuff, I wouldn't want the tension.
Here's another example.
Which means a lot of looseness.
I hope this has been useful!